Friends's Visit

Our friends arrived Wednesday afternoon for a couple days visit...we wandered the Boulevard and visited the Wine Merchant and were encouraged to have degustation of some Rose wine.

Thursday, we drove north to near Limoges (see previous post) to see a historical site.

On the way stopped for lunch after much searching and ended up at a small cafe for the menu de jour , which was a traditional Limousine meal...Blood sausage with chestnuts, etc.

Verdict: not the best meal we've had; the saving grace was the dessert......

Mango Merigune Pie

 Apple Pie with Creme Anglais

Busy time and good times with our friends.



The Martyred Town

Thursday, 29 March 2012

Today we drove two hours North (near Limoges) with our friends to visit Oradour sur Glane which until 10 June 1944 had been a well-situated, prosperous market town.

On that fateful day at two p.m. German soldiers arrived and proceeded to round up all of the inhabitants.

Before the day had ended they had deliberately massacred 642 men, women and children and systematically destroyed 328 buildings.

A tragedy unparalleled in the annals of the war.

The town was never rebuilt (in fact a new town was eventually built adjacent to the site) and has been a living memorial to this tragedy.

As you can see from the following pictures, virtually everything is as found the day after the massacre.

You are able to walk through the ruined town and see the totality of the destruction.

While a trial was eventually held in 1953, after an investigation lasting nine years only two officers were sentenced to death and 21 other participants were given minimum jail terms. Following the trial they were released from prison and even those condemned to death were pardoned shortly afterwards. Finally, a Lieutenant Barth (who had commanded the German troops the fateful day) was located in East Germany in 1981. A trial resulted in a verdict of life imprisonment. He expressed no regrets and stated he had only been following Orders.

Let us not forget them.

Lucky in Souillac!

Lucky in Souillac!

It’s okay kids, it’s not what you think…a pigeon decided to s**t on my shoulder and Graeme says that means I will be blessed with good luck.

Today, we decided to go to Souillac for a different view.

We travelled by bus from Gare de Gourdon to Gare de Soulliac.

Graeme saw beautiful vistas enroute, but I was strapped in for dear life as the driver was busy chatting with another passenger with his eyes off the road, and all the while exceeding the speed limit. The route from Gourdon to Souillac is full of sharp, sweeping curves and turns.

We arrived early morning 9:40AM, and then headed down hill from the train station to Centre Ville about 2.5Km; sauntered around the Ancient Quarters. Town was quiet, not peak tourist season with many closed establishments and properties for sale.

One of the main attractions in Souillac is the Abbey Sainte-Marie. The original abbey was built in the 12th century. We peeked inside only for a few minutes as approx. 100 children were visiting on a school trip.

“Souillacs’ situation on the road between Toulouse and Paris, on the river Borrèze and close to the river Dordogne led to the development of the town. It was surrounded by a defensive wall with five entrances. However the town and particularly the abbey suffered in the wars of religion. In the 17th century the benedictine monks rebuilt the monastic buildings next to the abbey. The abbey has beautiful domes in the same style as the cathedral at Perigueux. Inside are some excellent Romanesque sculptures.”… Excerpt from the Dordogne Travel Guide.

Additionally in the old part of town is a medieval bell tower, part of which collapsed in 1828.

Every where we travel, it never ceases to amaze us how the French almost torture the trees to make them grow the way they want. They prune the limbs to such a degree you would think the tree would never recover. Yet the trees thrive.

After lunch, walked uphill to the Train Station…and travelled back to Gourdon by train…I found the return trip more enjoyable.

Time Flies, But Who's Counting

Time Flies, But who’s counting…Maybe me or both of us.

It was just another Monday; it’s actually our fourth one since we arrived in  France on March 1^st.

I awoke earlier than normal today who knows why, and had all of my household chores (cleaning) done by 9AM and then showered and got on Graeme’s case to go to the Wi-Fi Café for a coffee and check email, etc. 

On our way we met some of the neighbors, who live in a beautifully restored home with lovely gardens, just a couple doors down from us on the steps that we take to the next lower level of the tiered streets. They are French but both he and she have a very good command of the English language.

Coincidentally, we spoke with him this past Saturday at the Market.  

At first, we ignored him because the market was busy with campaigning politicians; but he said he was a good politician promoting the wine fair…he is the organizer of the event and says the purpose is to “peek the interest”.

They are lovely and interesting people.

By the time we got to the Café it was 11:30AM and we ordered our coffees, did some emails and blogging. I couldn’t figure out why the café was so busy this early for lunch and they were already serving; very unusual.

We sauntered home, had our lunch and then trekked again to the large Supermarket on the Route de Fumel; (one of the furthest ones away).

We were not great walkers before we came, but we are getting better at it and need to do this in this country to burn off all the calories consumed. Walking home, past the hospital Graeme commented that the clock time was different by one hour…had the clocks changed?

So, we checked the Church clock also and of course it was actually 4:30 not 3:30 …that’s why there were so many people in the Café eating today…the time had changed to daylight savings and we had lost an hour.

But really, though, it’s hard to believe that we are coming up to a month here already.

Normally, on our previous trips to France which were only a month in length, we would be scrambling to go here and there.

We must make a return trip to Collioure (our favorite place on the Mediterranean, near the Spanish border) or where will we go?..... to Arles, Avignon, Cannes, Carcassonne, Nice, or where will we venture?…There are so many places to see.

Rear Window(s)

25th March 2012

Today, I looked out from the rear windows of the cottage and took several photos/postcards of the views.

Flash from the Past

After the required two hour lunch hour, we ventured to the Farm Store/ Garden Centre for some more clay pots for our new plant purchases, and a quick pickup at the smaller supermarket.

As we were coming out the Casino Supermarket; what should “Honey” spot in the parking lot, but none other than a “1958 Renault Dauphine” the very same model and year of car in which he learned to first drive in England at the young age of 17 in 1959.

His father, Herbert had been trying to teach young Graeme the lessons of the road and since he had learnt to drive pre- World War 2 he believed it was best to save the clutch and use the brakes on corners. This quickly resulted in a loud disagreement with Graeme who subscribed to the Sterling Moss system of downshifting and using engine braking. His father then realized that their relationship would become strained and suggested to his young son that he go to a “Driver Training School”.

Everything is Better in The Sun!

24th March 2012 – It’s market day again… You probably think that’s all we do is “eat, drink and be merry” but truly, life in France is so relaxed. I don’t know how to describe it, maybe it’s my European roots.

Saturdays in France are days to support the local farmers, producers and get fresh and sometimes unique products.

Today, we stayed in our town of Gourdon and it’s was humming at the Market this morning, more vendors, more shoppers, more politicians handing out pamphlets (elections are happening here soon), and local winemakers advertising the “2e Salon de Vins”; a wine fair of sorts which is happening next weekend in our town.

And of course, today the sun is shining brightly.

We did our shopping for fresh vegetables, potatoes, courgettes, aubergine, spinach, carrots, mushrooms, red peppers. 

I’m going to try my hand at making ratatouille this week…I’m using a recipe shared by my French friend.

Our Pasta man- “Les Pastas Marco” was back…so today, we purchased some smoked salmon & ricotta stuffed ravioli and honey will make some homemade Alfredo sauce to serve with it one night for our dinner.

We also bought more plants – ranunculus, I bought a white one a couple of weeks ago and it is doing so well that we couldn’t resist these today…absolutely intense colors; bright tangerine orange or is it  persimmon,  a deep lemon yellow and a mixed one of bright white and a deep rose or maybe it’s called vermillion.

We then headed to our favorite boulangerie for some fresh bread and stopped by a café “Le P’tite Bouchon” for a Grand Crème and some people watching…then home for lunch.

Is there something in the water or is it in the wine?

Thursday, 15th March 2012

It’s only just over two weeks that we’ve been living in the Southwest of France, during the last of the winter and early spring.  Everyday this week the Monsieur of the house, that would be Graeme, has said “I need a haircut!”

That is not a problem in France. There is no shortage of Coiffures in any city, town or village of France and Gourdon is no exception.

Last count on our walks throughout the town, we found  8+ coiffures. s

Today, he couldn’t stand it anymore, so down to the Boulevard we walked to select which salon would meet the Monsieur’s requirements.

Finally, he selected the shop “Viva La Vie” that suited him and I requested the required services in my best French and left him there to fend for himself.

He speaks very little French, but he does his best to communicate and get what he needs or wants. But when it comes to having a haircut, I would be very careful.

I went back to find him still in the chair with a huge smile on his face, he was pleased with the young girls’ aptitude in cutting his hair , and I had a Happy Monsieur to spend the rest of the day with.

………………………………………………………………………………………………
Now today, Friday, 23^rd March 2012  a week later, the Madame of the household could no longer tolerate her hair…so she asked in a local shop this morning for a recommendation for a good hairdresser…and much to her surprise she was able to get an appointment for this afternoon at “Jocelyne  Coiffure” and now also has a new hairstyle.

Not Just Another Monday!

This morning Graeme requested French Crepes for breakfast; that’s not normally a problem, but even after doing a shop Sunday morning in the larger supermarket in Prayssac before our friends brought us home…we were short on milk today.

It’s Monday and everything is closed; that’s what we’ve been told.

We headed out to the shop that’s comparable to a convenience store back home…the Petit Casino, and sure enough it was shuttered closed.

Then we tried a Tabac/Newspaper store, they have a cooler with juices, water, etc. but no milk.

I asked the shop keeper if there were any stores where we could buy milk today.

Oh, of course the larger supermarkets are open, Carrefour, Inter-Marche and Leader Price…these are all on the highway out of town, the long walk, but Leader Price is only half way as to what we normally walk.

Success, milk and a few other things, and the Boulangerie across the street was open, so we were also able to get some fresh bread for dinner.

After our trek home and a few minutes in the kitchen; Graeme was able to have his feast of crepes with Canadian Maple Syrup that he had imported in his suitcase.

 It was a cool and damp day, so we spent the afternoon watching DVDs of "Twin Peaks" ...what a crazy, campy, enjoyable show...how did we miss this years ago?  And many more epidsodes to view!!

Market Day in Cahors!

Market Day in Cahors

We left our little cottage at 7 am, to catch the 7:47 am train from Gourdon to Cahors and the walk to the station was downhill all the way and it actually was only a 15-20 minute walk; but we couldn’t miss this train…because the next one on Saturdays was not until 2:43PM and the Market and lunch would be finished by that time.

An early arrival in Cahors at 8:12am, we walked to the Centre-Ville, the market vendors were busy setting up in anticipation of a busy day.

It was a cooler, cloudy day with the sun peaking thru once in awhile, and the clouds threatened rain all morning; but held off until late afternoon when we were snug in front of the fire at our friends in Prayssac.

Rain was welcomed as the gardens and lands are very dry.

We found a nice café, Le coin des Halles in the

Market Square

for Café Grand crèmes and croissants.

Wandered around the market, purchased some fresh vegetables and of course, fresh made pasta.

We met our friends at the appointed hour in front of the Church in the

Market Square

and after some errands in the town, we went to Cote Sud, a favorite restaurant for lunch; where we enjoyed a delicious meal and good company.

General view from street across from restaurant.

Homework First, Then Lunch!

Busy morning doing my French language homework, while Honey finished reading "The Rum Diaries" by Hunter S. Thompson, sitting in the garden. 

At 12;30PM, he dragged me away for lunch at the Croque Note, a French/Vietnamese restaurant up a side lane from the main Boulevard.

Menu of the Day  12.50 Euros

Starter - Country pates

Main course - Fish with basil/rice/potatoes and vegetables

Dessert- Apple cake & Walnut Cake with whipping cream/creme anglais & caramel

Main Course

Dessert

A lovely way to the start the weekend..tomorrow off to Cahors for Market Day and a visit with friends.

Snakes and Ladders?

We’ve now walked the streets of Gourdon more than once; actually we walk everyday and more often than not two to three times a day.

First thing in the morning maybe a trip to the Boulangerie for Honey’s croissants and for some reason he likes the ones from the furthest bakery.

Later to the shops for our daily needs or further afield to the larger Supermarket, a walk to the local café and/ or a discovery walk in the town.  

And most days, we feel like Billy goats running up and down hills.  We have found that the boulevards, streets, alleys and lanes are like the game “Snakes and Ladders”.

There is a tiny, narrow street called – rue Zig Zag and we actually believe that all the streets, lanes and alleys do just that zig zag down from the Old Castle walls from one level to the next.

Think of a maypole with it ribbons or a tiered layer cake of varying sizes that wrap around the old historic part of town and then further layers down into the newer part of town.

Rue Marsis lies about in the middle tier of the layer cake in the old town. The main Boulevard where most of the shops are located lies two- three streets below our street; depending where we are heading to, it is either uphill for part of the journey or downhill.

When we are carrying our goods home, it always feels like we are mountain climbing. 

From the main Blvd. you can travel into the new part of town which also rambles up and down.

The large Supermarkets and Garden Centre are on the highway going out of town.

This week we’ve done two long sojourns out; Monday, we did a two-hour discovery walk into an area we had yet not seen and Wednesday afternoon we again trekked to the larger supermarket and also discovered Gamm-Vert, a large nursery/garden centre. We came home with a shopping bag full of plants and also one with some groceries. It was a hot, thirsty walk home.

Also, this week we needed potting soil for our containers and Graeme carried those 20L bags home from down below, another couple streets below the Blvd. from a store similar to a TSC back home.

Graeme says: Who needs “Zumba or aqua-jogging”? with all this walking…time will answer this question!

Sunday in the Dordogne

11 March 2012

Today, friends arrived with a surprise assortment of spring box plants for our temporary garden. In addition, one of our friends, kindly lent us a garden fork and donated some flower pots for our plantings.

They drove us thru the scenic countryside and beautiful villages with fantastic vistas to the Perigord Noir / Dordogne Valley.

Gourdon is situated in the Lot Valley but is very near the Dordogne border; an area that we have never previously visited.

We arrived at our first destination in Beynac….a charming restaurant that was very familiar to one of our friends.

 

The restaurant was warm and inviting, company delightful and food was absolutely delicious and great value for four courses.

The server brought a tureen of piping hot Mushroom soup to the table and the basket of bread.

Followed by the next courses:

Starters: choice of smoked salmon & salad or a traditional “Quercy” salad with “gesiers”.  

Main: choice of Duck Confit or Sturgeon fish in a white wine butter sauce.

Dessert: choices were plentiful, Dark Chocolate Ganache with oranges; Tart Tatin (apple pie) and a Nougat Ice Cream with raspberry coulis.

Our taste buds were tantalized, but the salmon was the highlight.

Absolutely delicious!

From Beynac, we took a different route home and stopped quickly to look up at a  village built in the cliffs (not sure of the name but think it was La Roque- Gageac, (where starting in April you can also take a boat tour along the river- a must do activity) then continued on to the village of Domme.

We leisurely wandered the streets of Domme, and went “Wow!”

Words can not express the magnificence of these villages. 

There are five villages within an hour of each other that have been designated as one of “Les plus Beaux Villages de France de la Vallee Dordogne” (the most beautiful villages of France in the Valley of the Dordogne).

Thank you to our friends for a wonderful day!