Dilly - “Dalí “ing in Cadaqués, Spain

It’s Friday, September 22nd, 2017 and Monsieur Honey says we are going on a road trip. 

Ceret is located so close to Spain it’s nothing to slip across the border for some lunch, shopping and/or sightseeing.

We opted to skip a repeat of our “day of wine & roses” in Roses, Spain where we have enjoyed delicious seafood dishes and rosé wine on two previous stays. 

It was tempting to return to the familiar. 

I would have loved a visit with Marta, the proprietor at L’Estrop Restaurant and enjoy some deliciously prepared dishes plus dip some fresh bread in a tiny bowl of the most delectable olive oil.

 “Oli de L’Avi Pere” olive oil produced by Marta’s father. 

Actually, I would have purchased more bottles of this buttery olive oil to bring back home as this year’s souvenir. 

Maybe next time. 

Even though Molly our dear GPS who was fully dressed with all the updated European maps made the trip across the air and seas with us; Monsieur Honey used the built in GPS to be his trusted navigator for our excursion.

We didn’t realize that our rental car would have a navigation system. 

What a surprise ... bonus! 

We travelled familiar roads until we reached just outside Roses. 

We headed to the coastline manoeuvering twists and turns, hairpin curves up and then down on the steep hills on the Costa Brava (known as the Wild or Rough Coast).

As we descended, we had magnificent views of the of this new to us, sparkling “whitewashed town” of Cadaqués located on the bay in the middle of the Cap de Creus peninsula in the Mediterranean. 

I don’t think I have any photos from above because as you know I’m not the greatest with this kind of travel, heights and narrow roads and all the while Monsieur Honey is saying “Pat, look Pat, there’s a great shot! Look Pat look!” 

How does he know that if he’s suppose to have his eyes on the road! Yikes!

Santa Maria the 16th century hilltop Gothic Church dominating the skyline.

This area attracted many artists over the years and is a special place in art history. 

Not unlike the southwest coast of France on the Mediterranean, there is magic in the light.

Salvador Dali visited here many times during his childhood and later had a home in Port Lligat, a small village on the bay next to the town. 

Dali’s House-Museum is a very popular tourist attraction requiring the purchase of tickets beforehand. 

As you stroll along the waterfront you will find replicas of Dali’s works enclosed in plexiglass.

We drove into town through the narrow streets not paying particular attention where the parking lots were located.

We drove around the bay along the water to the far side and found a spot in a far afield beach parking area. 

It’s a good thing I’m not adverse to walking distances. 

This beautiful seaside town is just so fresh with sea air, tranquil in its own way (although we visited in the shoulder season, so not as many tourists maybe that helped) and the water is many shades of azure blue. 

It’s full of charm, little boutiques, artist galleries and many bars and restaurants. 

The photos below were taken from the far side as we were walking into the town from the beach parking area ...

We walked around the whole Bay Area first and then it was time for some food and refreshment. 

We found a tiny restaurant with outdoor seating along the waterfront with great views of the water activity. 

First some Spanish rosé and olives before our lunch order arrived. 

The views from our table ...

And we had front row seats to a photo shoot ... we guessed for a fashion magazine. 

We ran in to this group in several locations with the model changing into different gowns right in the open. 

At one point I thought I would have to blindfold Monsieur Honey as she was standing in front of us in her undergarments. 

Now refueled we continued our walking tour through the towns’ cobble stoned lanes and streets ... the old town definitely is pedestrian friendly. 

Automobile access is difficult, climbing the narrow uphill lanes. 

 

   

The streets are filled with little white houses overlooking the sea most adorned with blue shutters and gorgeous colourful flowers. 

  

Monsieur Honey enjoying the long view ...

Casa Serinyana or Sa Casa Blaua ... the Blue House is one of the modernist buildings along the seafront.

Through my readings I’ve discovered that some of Cadaqués ’ inhabitants moved to Cuba during the early years of the 20th century.

Here many of them became financially successful and they later returned to Cadaqués where they built large, ornate houses. 

The Blue House is an example with it’s glazed blue tiles and wrought iron balconies. 

It is a spectacular sight. 

Some colourful Spanish pottery that decorates the “white chalk” houses ...

                         

Oh I so hoped to get a glass of wine here to numb my senses for the hair raising, white knuckle drive back home to Cerét ... but no luck this Tropical Cafe was not open, they were probably enjoying their siesta! 

We did arrive safely back home and since it’s Friday we parked down below in one of the village’s car parks as tomorrow is Market Day in Cerét. 

I think Dali describes the town beautifully ...

An excerpt ... ~Salvador Dali, letter to his uncle, 1919, Ian Gibson, The Shameful Life of Salvador Dalí, Faber and Faber, London, 1997, p.65 

“ I spent a delicious summer, as always, in the ideal and dreamy village of Cadaqués. There, beside the Latin sea, I gorged myself on light and colour. I spent the fiery days of summer painting frenetically and trying to capture the incomparable beauty of the sea and of the sun-drenched beach.“

A Garden Party in Cerét

Our morning started with a stroll around town and a café stop for a coffee.

We didn’t have too much planned for today. We were actually looking forward to some down time after our busy cruise life. 

Based on the good reviews that we were given by our Kiwi friends, we decided to check out the new restaurant in town.

I messaged the restaurant and made a 1 pm reservation for lunch on the terrace. 

We arrived at the appointed time to a full house.

I was very pleased that we had made a reservation. 

The weather was very accommodating and cooperative which we appreciated. 

Our mantra while travelling in Europe is to “take advantage of as much alfresco dining as we can”. It’s already September 21st and you just don’t know when we will be able to eat outside again. I’m sure we won’t be able to when we arrive back home in October, unless we are treated to a balmy Indian Summer in Canada.   

It was a magic day in the garden with shade provided the beautiful mulberry tree and umbrellas. 

                                        

We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon, eating deliciously prepared food and sipping some cold rosé in the garden. 

We chose the “menu du jour” ... three courses, a starter, a main dish and dessert! 

We can now also highly recommend “le jardin Restaurant” and would definitely go back when we are visiting this area of France again. 

           

                                      

Feeling at Home in Ceret!

We made our home base in Céret, France from September 19th to October 1st, 2017. 

Céret is a border town located in southwestern France at the foothills of the Pyrénées with both French and Catalan influences. 

And when I say home base, I mean we are quite comfortable staying here in the same apartment we’ve rented for the past three years.

 “Ciel Bleu” is perfectly located in Place de la Liberté close to the shops to fulfill our every need and want from “boulangeries, boucheries, pâtisseries” to wine shops. 

There is also a fresh fruit and vegetable seller right across the street  .... all is within easy walking distance. 

And let’s not forget the many cafés and restaurants, plus there is the gigantic Market that takes over the many streets of Ceret on Saturday mornings.

On our first full day, we strolled the many streets and lanes reacquainting ourselves with the town ... checking out what was still the same and what had changed.

 This view from “Ciel Bleu’s” balcony may be familiar! 

I never tire of looking out to the mountains, people watching in the Place de la Liberté and waving Bonjour to the neighbours.

And views of the blue, blue skies over the tile rooftops ...

The beautiful dappled sunlight ... 

Some of the usual characters are still hanging around ... 

The Mairie adorned by both the French and Catalan flags! 

 This is the latest time in the year that we have visited Ceret and even though the sun shines brightly with warmth, signs of Fall/Autumn are evident in the changing colours of the leaves. 

The oh so beautiful, majestic tall plane trees that line the streets! 

On our stroll back home we sauntered through La Place des Neuf Jets and as Monsieur Honey looked up he saw our Kiwi friend, John hanging out his fourth floor window (not literally)  waving Bonjour and extending an invitation to come up. 

We enjoyed reconnecting / catching up with Karen and John who this year had only arrived early on in September from New Zealand. They split their time between their homes in New Zealand and their meticulously, restored apartment home in Ceret.  

We came away with a couple of must try restaurant recommendations. 

We exchanged “a bientôts “ and hopefully we will meet up again before our stay in Ceret is over. 

We had an enjoyable day and quickly all became familiar again. 

What will we be doing tomorrow? 

On Our Way from Spain to France

After a good night’s sleep and another delicious buffet breakfast at the Hotel Curious;  we ventured out for a last stroll in the neighbourhood. 

Our hotel was located on Calle Carme just 200 meters off Las Ramblas. It was the perfect location for us as we only had one day in the city on each end of the cruise.

I haven’t quite found out the answer to whether it is “La Rambla”or “Las Ramblas” ... both spellings are found in everything I’ve read.

This morning, we finally checked out the most famous market in Barcelona “ Boqueria Market”. 

What a colourful place. A feast for all five senses! 

The sights, smells, sounds, tastes and touch of a great shopping experience to discover a new culture. I was sorry we hadn’t been here longer to be able to fully enjoy all the market had to offer. 

Many varieties of fresh peppers in any colour, shape or size! 

Anyone want to try the emu eggs? 

Food to go not French fries ... a little tapas (dried sausages)! Yummy.

What a hive of activity in this wonderful covered marketplace! 

After our morning in the “hood” we caught our cab to the Barcelona Sants train station for the next leg of our adventure.

Caught the fast train to Perpignan, France (a short travel time of under an hour and a half) where we picked up our rental car and drove to Céret, France.

The view from the train window ...

We’ve arrived ... we treated ourselves to a welcome back “verre de vin rose “!

The view from the balcony at Ciel Bleu apartment in Céret, France ... 

 

Stay tuned for many more photos and stories that I will share about of our 2017 adventure ...our two weeks in Céret, day trips where discovered some very special places and our final week spent in the Lot Valley.