Sarlat, Saints, Saffron, and Showers

Friday, 20th April 2012

Today we revisited Sarlat pronounced sar- lah (not on a Market Day) and wandered the streets, alleys and lanes and saw more of the town, all while dodging the occasional showers.



Graeme and I also visited the "Cathedral of Saint Sacerdos" a few parts of which date back as far as the 12th century with many additions and reconstructions in the 14th, 17th and 18th centuries.

The roman church of the Benedictine abbey became a cathedral in 1317.

The Organ is perched on a form of a bird's nest, described as one of the most beautiful of the 18th century - a work by Jean- Francois Lepine (1752)

Behind the Cathedral, we found a stony passage way and what we believe was the Monk's graveyard.

The bullet shaped tower in the background is known as "The Lantern of the Dead"dating from 1147 ...it is the oldest monument in town.

The story is that in 4 horrible days a quarter of Sarlat's population died in a plague.(1000 out of 4000)

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On the return trip to Gourdon, we went in search of Saffron for our visitors.  We travelled up,down and around windy, narrow country roads to the address of the Saffron farm ...only to find no one there and not able to purchase any saffron or have a tour of the farm.

Saffron stamens come from a specific crocus bulb that doesn't flower until the fall (October).

Footnote: the following day in Gourdon, K was able to purchase some saffron at a local shop to take home.

We ended the day with a delicious dinner and drinks at the Promenade Cafe in Gourdon.

Honey chose Confit de Canard (Duck)

K and myself had shrimp & scallops with a melange of other seafood, 

M enjoyed the veal.

Why do the French eat snails?.............because they don't like fast food!

From Fortress to Farm to Foie Gras

From Fortress to Farm to Foie Gras ( Tuesday 17th April 2012 )

Today,we travelled to Domme, built in 1280 on a rocky crag with panoramic views overlooking the countryside of the Dordogne valley.

There are three gates that allow entrance through Domme’s walls.

The views are magnificent, but a stroll through the many streets and lanes of the bastide was just as interesting and beautiful.

After an enjoyable afternoon at Domme, we were driving aimlessly in the countryside (actually took a wrong turn and didn't listen to Molly asking us to make a u-turn) and came across a farmer standing near his field where his Blond Aquitaine cattle were grazing.

We stopped to get a photo for our visitors and in conversation with Farmer Brown; we learnt of a Foie gras operation not too far away and were told we would be able to tour the farm.

Here, were given the royal tour…we saw the 2 day old baby geese in the barn, 2-3 month old geese  grazing the fields and then the 5 month old geese who are then penned and are force fed corn four times a day for three weeks before they are ready for market.

Rainy day of Culture and Discovery

Thursday 19th April 2012

It was a rainy day, but a day of discovery.

We ventured out for a drive in the drizzly weather in the countryside.

First stop the village of  Les Arques, home of the Zadkine Museum...a famous sculptor. 

The village is also well known because of a book" From Here You Can't See Paris"  written about daily life in the village and the schoolhouse restaurant...La Recreation.


From Here You Can't See Paris , is a sweet, leisurely exploration of the life of Les Arques (population 159), a hilltop village in a remote corner of France untouched by the modern era. It is a story of a dying village's struggle to survive, of a dead artist whose legacy began its rebirth, and of chef Jacques Ratier and his wife, Noëlle, whose bustling restaurant -- the village's sole business -- has helped ensure Les Arques's future.
I set out to explore the inner workings of a French restaurant kitchen but ended up stumbling into a much richer world. Through the eyes of the whole family, one discovers the vibrant traditions of food, cooking, and rural living, and comes to know the village's history. Whether uncovering the darker secrets of making foie gras, hearing a chef confess his doubts about the Michelin star system, or absorbing the lore of the land around a farmhouse kitchen table after a boar hunt, life in Les Arques turned out to be anything but sleepy.
"From Here, You Can't See Paris is a delightful tale of how an American discover le pays, the little France where the roads on the Michelin map are the thinnest of lines. It is the story of a young couple's restaurant and the ancient French village that it brings back to life. Rather than idealize what he sees, Michael Sanders' report is all the more remarkable for its clear-eyed honesty."
--Patrick Kuh, author of The Last Days of Haute Cuisine
All material ©2005 Michael S. Sanders

Next we discovered a Fortified Church in the village of Thediarac and some lovely gardens in Rampoux.





At the end of the day, K & M visited the Prehistoric Caves.

It was another busy day!