From Fortress to Farm to Foie Gras

From Fortress to Farm to Foie Gras ( Tuesday 17th April 2012 )

Today,we travelled to Domme, built in 1280 on a rocky crag with panoramic views overlooking the countryside of the Dordogne valley.

There are three gates that allow entrance through Domme’s walls.

The views are magnificent, but a stroll through the many streets and lanes of the bastide was just as interesting and beautiful.

After an enjoyable afternoon at Domme, we were driving aimlessly in the countryside (actually took a wrong turn and didn't listen to Molly asking us to make a u-turn) and came across a farmer standing near his field where his Blond Aquitaine cattle were grazing.

We stopped to get a photo for our visitors and in conversation with Farmer Brown; we learnt of a Foie gras operation not too far away and were told we would be able to tour the farm.

Here, were given the royal tour…we saw the 2 day old baby geese in the barn, 2-3 month old geese  grazing the fields and then the 5 month old geese who are then penned and are force fed corn four times a day for three weeks before they are ready for market.

Rainy day of Culture and Discovery

Thursday 19th April 2012

It was a rainy day, but a day of discovery.

We ventured out for a drive in the drizzly weather in the countryside.

First stop the village of  Les Arques, home of the Zadkine Museum...a famous sculptor. 

The village is also well known because of a book" From Here You Can't See Paris"  written about daily life in the village and the schoolhouse restaurant...La Recreation.


From Here You Can't See Paris , is a sweet, leisurely exploration of the life of Les Arques (population 159), a hilltop village in a remote corner of France untouched by the modern era. It is a story of a dying village's struggle to survive, of a dead artist whose legacy began its rebirth, and of chef Jacques Ratier and his wife, Noëlle, whose bustling restaurant -- the village's sole business -- has helped ensure Les Arques's future.
I set out to explore the inner workings of a French restaurant kitchen but ended up stumbling into a much richer world. Through the eyes of the whole family, one discovers the vibrant traditions of food, cooking, and rural living, and comes to know the village's history. Whether uncovering the darker secrets of making foie gras, hearing a chef confess his doubts about the Michelin star system, or absorbing the lore of the land around a farmhouse kitchen table after a boar hunt, life in Les Arques turned out to be anything but sleepy.
"From Here, You Can't See Paris is a delightful tale of how an American discover le pays, the little France where the roads on the Michelin map are the thinnest of lines. It is the story of a young couple's restaurant and the ancient French village that it brings back to life. Rather than idealize what he sees, Michael Sanders' report is all the more remarkable for its clear-eyed honesty."
--Patrick Kuh, author of The Last Days of Haute Cuisine
All material ©2005 Michael S. Sanders

Next we discovered a Fortified Church in the village of Thediarac and some lovely gardens in Rampoux.





At the end of the day, K & M visited the Prehistoric Caves.

It was another busy day!

Rocamadour- Wednesday 18th April 2012

"An hour east of Sarlat, this historic pilgrimage town with its dramatic rock-face setting is a sight after dark,...  While once one of Europe's top pilgramage sites, today it feels more tacky than spiritual....." quote from Rick Steeves France 2007.

The town has three levels, connected by steps or elevators.
The bottom - Cite Medievale is a single pedestrian street lined with shops  and restaurants, the next level...the Sanctuary level is up 223 holy steps whose centrepiece is a church with seven chapels.
And then there is a switchback trail, with 14 Stations of the Cross that leads to the top level and chateau which is closed to the public.